The ruined city of Great Zimbabwe is the largest stone structure ever built south of the Sahara. It lies in the rugged south-eastern hills of Zimbabwe near Lake Mutirikwe and the town of Masvingo. The World Heritage Site is not far from the country’s border with Mozambique, and we approached from Tete, where we camped right on the Zambezi at the Jesus is Good campsite, which had the filthiest ablutions we ever saw.

At Great Zimbabwe, we stayed two nights at the national park campsite, which was fine, although dilapidated. A guard patrols the campsite at night and is happy to bring firewood. It is within easy walking distance of the ancient walled city. The capital of the Kingdom of Zimbabwe, construction began in the 11th century and building continued until the 14th century. It spans an area of 722 hectares and could have housed up to 18 000 people. One of its most prominent features are its walls, some of which are over five metres high and were constructed without mortar. Eventually the city was abandoned and fell into ruin.