Centuries old baobabs dot the countryside on the way to Mana Pools. After stopping at the National Parks office in Morongora for an entry permit, good gravel takes you via the lovely Nyamepi Camp, site of Mana Pools headquarters, to Ndungu. These undeveloped (meaning no facilities whatsoever) exclusive campsites are strung out along the Zambezi river.

A World Heritage Site, Mana Pools national park stretches across 2000km² of prime Zambezi riverfront vegetation, much of which is only accessible on foot and as a result is completely unspoilt. The wildlife is spectacular, with elephant and hippo strolling through the camp at night. Mana Pools is the finest wilderness area in Zimbabwe and one of the country’s most popular wildlife destinations. A feature of the landscape is the shady canopy provided by dense forests.

There are wonderfully wild campsites and abundant game along the Zambezi River. We stayed at Ndungu exclusive campsites, where there are absolutely no facilities whatsoever. Having paid our dues, we were allowed to select our own spot. Our fancy was taken by a narrow clearing above a riverbank and we had front row seats for the hippo serenade, which lasted all night.