We crossed the Tanzanian border at Tunduma-Nakonde. Count on two hours, it is CHAOTIC. Tanzanian Fuel Levy/Road tax $25, Toll US$5. Fuel is about the same price in Tanzania and in Zambia.

An unexpected surprise was Riverside Campsite, turn off the R45 at Chimala, on the fringe of Kitulo National Park. We had the place to ourselves, right alongside a fast-flowing river.

Its is estimated that 2000 farmers are involved in the production of red onions in the Iringa region in Tanzania. Many of them produce two crops per annum. The majority cannot afford to store their produce and rely on passing trade in cars and buses; roadside stalls are a common sight. Iringa onions are accepted to be the standard onions on the market, acceptable but not of high quality.

The Iringa highway traverses Mikumi National Park for 50km. Traditional basketware is sold at roadside stalls. We camped at Kola Hill Hotel, Mgorogoro, which is not a great campsite. But the excellent Toyota garage is nearby!

Continuing along the R104 we loved the spectacular views of the South Pare & Usambara Mountains. The short detour to Marangu, set against the foothills of Mt Kilimanjaro, is well worth it to overnight at the Coffee Tree Campsite. Hallo, hot showers and grassy lawns! US$8 pp.