Coming from Mikumi in Tanzania, we had a long day of driving and were thrilled that for once there were no border charges entering Malawi. We headed for Lake Malawi and found a lovely spot right on the beach. Chitimba Beach Camp Site, camping $4,5 p/p.

Next day we left early for Nyika National Park. Although the distance is only 175 km, the road (R146) is abominable. Few people have heard of the scenic splendour that is the Nyika Plateau in the north of Malawi. In 1965 The Nyika National Park became the first certified Park in Malawi. It is the largest (covering an area of over 3,000 sq. km) and highest (heights averaging 1,800m) of Malawi’s parks bordering Zambia on the western side. The area is virtually uninhabited by man, with only a few settlements of Aphoka people.

The main Thazima gate is in the southwest of the park, 54km from Rumphi; to Chelinda Camp it’s another 55km of terrible road. We saw large herds of roan antelope en route to Chelinda and the countryside is covered in moor-like, treeless grasslands, endless rolling hills, occasionally interrupted by pockets of evergreen forest in the ravines and valleys. It was rather cold on the high plateau. Our evening barbeque was almost spoilt by crows stealing the lamb chops from the fire, but to make up for the nuisance, a pair of bushbuck were mating a few metres from us. Fuel is available at Chelinda, but in limited supply so it’s best to fill up before you enter the park. Entry fee US$10pp, MK70 tourism levy.

Next day we lunched at Nkhata Bay and drove altogether 500 km to Senga Bay. We loved the setting of Steps Camp Site, next door to Livingstonia Beach Hotel. It is one of the nicest camp sites in Malawi, with good facilities, grass, trees and an inviting beach. $6 p/p.