On our first morning in the park, we headed straight for Hapoor waterhole. There were a few safari vehicles, but on the whole we had the place to ourselves. Then the elephant started arriving, non-stop. Eventually there were over 100 with dozens of little ones. We were surrounded by the hordes!

There was high drama when one of the littlies fell into the waterhole and couldn’t get out. Much trumpeting and rumbling by the entire group ensued. The bulls kicked up dust in their eagerness to rally the mothers to assist the little tyke. Eventually it emerged unharmed, but covered all over in dark mud except for its ears, eyes and trunk. What relief!

Then a hyaena couple arrived, keen for a bath themselves. There was much splashing and shaking of heads and eventually one of them even submerged its head under the surface. When the male had had enough and started to leave, his companion initially followed him, them turned around for another go at it. The previous days the temperature reached 39 degrees, which explains their frolicking. Another unique experience.